Ride4Kids Didier Martin World Trip. Journal.

The "you!you! give me money"country.

Throughout the 1970s and 1980s, the outside world knew Ethiopia as the most persistently famine-prone country, but since the change of government in 1991 things have improved due to the increase in agricultural production. Ethiopia is also unique among African countries for having never been colonized in the great European `scramble for Africa' of the 19th and 20th centuries. In 1935 the Italians invaded Ethiopia and occupied the country for 4 years under Mussolini.
Ethiopia has a population of around 60 million people, some of the ethnic groups that inhabit the southwest, such as the Mursi lip

stretchers and Karo body painters, are among the most fascinating on the African continent.
They also have a different calendar; they are currently in the year 1995, which means than in Ethiopia I am only 39 years old. The first day of the year is the 11th of September (sounds familiar?), Christmas is celebrated on the 7th of January, the time is different as well, when it's 6am for us it's midnight for them so when they tell you that the bank open at 2am it means 8am for us, very confusing sometime.

Thursday 26 Dec.
Because of the election in Kenya on the following day, the World Vision people insisted that I crossed the border in case of trouble.
Crossing the border was a little more complicated than I expected. On the Ethiopian side they insisted on searching all my luggage, which means that I had to unpack everything while they went through it. The laptop and the video camera had to be declared, this is to prevent me selling it in the country. The whole process took 2 hours but I was not in hurry having planned to stay for a couple of nights in the town anyway.
Some of you have asked me what I do about money; I carry traveler's checks in US currency which I usually cash in banks or bureau de change. When I leave a country I try to have enough cash to get me to the next major town where I will be able to change more money, the trick is to change just enough for that particular country.

Saturday 28 Dec.
It was good to be back on a sealed road. I had to concentrate on riding on the right side of the road though, there was hardly any traffic at all and I reached Yabello at around midday.
I had planned on leaving the bike there and to visit the towns of Konso and Arba Minch by local transport. The reason for that was because they had had plenty of rain and the rivers were fairly high making it very difficult to cross as there are no bridges.
The idea behind this little detour was to visit some of the very isolated tribes like the Mursi. I arranged to leave my bike and most of my luggage at the hotel where I was staying for a small price.

The next day I caught a local truck (the only public transport around here) to the village of Konso, 90km away on a dirt road. Around 50 local farmers were cramped on the truck as well, we left at 2pm and what was supposed to be a 3 hours trip turned up to be a painful ordeal as the truck kept on breaking down, finally dying for good at 7pm and with 40 more km to go things were not looking great. As no one spoke English I had no idea of what was going to happen next, the atmosphere was not nice either as people kept on arguing between themselves for whatever reason; there

was absolutely no other traffic whatsoever. I had not brought anything to eat or drink with me and being in the middle of nowhere I had no way to get any so I just settled for the night with the others on the truck like in a tin of sardines. At 10.30pm everyone got agitated as someone spotted truck lights coming our way. It was an empty truck, the next half hour was a mad rush to get on it but we finally got going and reached our destination at midnight. My problem now was to find a place to stay. It was dark with no electricity and with it being so late it was going to be quite an adventure. But this time I had luck on my side as someone hearing me asking for a hotel somehow made me follow him in the dark, we walked together for about a km, he then called someone who took me to a room, that person showed it to me briefly with a flashlight and left me in it, in total darkness. At this point I will not describe to you what I had to do when at 4 am I had a very urgent nature call, I will just say that a candle or even a match would have made my life much easier.

The next day being Monday was market day. The market did not get going until 11am as most of the locals have to walk for hours to get to it and it's usually the women who carry all the veggies, wood, fruits etc. on their backs, while the men just hang around. Until quite recently, outside influence was almost unknown to

the people of Konso. A pagan society with a complex age-grading system similar to that of the Oromos, the Konso boast a rich culture and a highly specialized and successful agricultural economy. The beautifully constructed, buttressed stone terraces have allowed the Konso to eke out a living from the dry, unyielding land around them. Surrounding the Konso villages and fields are sturdy stone walls, which serve as a defense against straying cattle and flash flooding, as well as against unwelcome visitors.
I spent most of the day just watching the market life. Later on I met some people going to Arba Minch, my next stop and only about 100km north of Konso. They agreed to give me a lift in their 4 wheel drive vehicle. Again we had to cross a few rivers and I could see that I would never have been able to cross them on my bike.
We arrived there at about 6pm and I went straight to Rosa Hotel where I was able to get a very basic room for just over one US dollar.
Arba Minch is set on an escarpment overlooking Lake Abaya to the north, Lake Chamo to the south, and the Rift Valley to the west. The town itself is very pleasant with magnificent views. Like everyone else, I suppose, I imagined Ethiopia to be a land of desert, very dry, flat with semi arid climatic conditions. I was wrong, so far I have seen rivers, beautiful green mountains, tropical valleys with banana trees and some very large lakes.
Tuesday 31 Dec.
With New Years Eve approaching very quickly, my chances for a big party did not look to good until I met a group of 20 Dutch tourists, raveling in 5 four wheel drive Land Rovers, they were on an organized tour for 4 weeks around Ethiopia.
They invited me to join them for a big dinner in one of the local restaurants and later on we all went for a dance in the local bar. It turned up to be a great night and I even had maybe one or two many beers and woke up the next day not feeling the best and my plans to return to Yabello postponed for another day.
Thanks to all of you for inviting me around and good luck with the rest of your trip.
With all the rain in the region I soon realized than to visit some of the more remote areas would take more time and effort that I was prepared to give, as there is no public transport, only local trucks which are very rare the further you go.

Thursday 2 Jan 2003
Early that morning I caught a truck back to Konso and later on another one to Yabello and arrived there at 5pm with only a couple of minor incidents like flat tyres.
I was glad to see my bike and my luggage intact.
There is not much to do in Yabello and walking through the town is far from pleasurable as you get surrounded by hoards of screaming, giggling or shouting kids and adolescents screaming at you "You! You! Give me money" or "You! You! Where are you go…!" The bad news is that it's not only in Yabello but all over Ethiopia. It's very distressing, exhausting, infuriating and demoralizing. I don't think I will ever get used to it. Ethiopia is probably one of the most assisted countries in the world, especially in the last 20 years with all the aid organizations, now they associate white people with money. Also, tourism is quite new in Ethiopia; they are not used to us, so maybe in a few years they will change their behavior or it is just wishful thinking?
Back in my room I did not have much to do either as the power was not on. I was so desperate that I started to read again the only book that I have. Agatha Christie is good but when you read it for a second time, you definitely know who the murderer is even before Hercule Poirot himself.
So I was glad to leave that place early the next day, at 6.30 actually, I was heading to Awassa, some 300km further north on a beautiful sealed road. It was quite cold at first but warmed up very quickly, the countryside was lovely and people were waving at me as I went past. I could hear the "You! You..." as I went trough the villages.
I reached Awassa at midday and found the Unique Park Hotel, a bargain at US$3.00 per night; the hotel is set in a beautiful garden right by Lake Awassa.

Awassa is an attractive town in a beautiful setting, poised at the very edge of the lake. The birdlife by the lake is extraordinary, lots of vultures, pelicans, maribu storks, Kingfishers, herons, crakes, darters and eagles are among the species commonly seen on the waters' edge.

The next few days were spent at servicing the bike, running and relaxing while waiting for the World Vision office to reopen as they had taken a break for the Ethiopian Christmas which was on the 7th of January.

I spent a lot of time with my good friend Grahame Francks, from the UK, exploring the region. Grahame has already been in Ethiopia for 7 weeks and is now about to fly to Cairo.
One day we joined three more tourists for a boat trip on the lake to Tikur Wuha to see the hippos, we were able to see few of them as they were playing rather close to our little boat I thought.
Another day we both got invited for coffee by a young local girl. An invitation for coffee in Ethiopia is not just a quick cupper. Let me tell you about it. The coffee ceremony is the best feature of Ethiopian hospitality, and an invitation to attend one is a mark of friendship or respect, but make sure that you are not in hurry.

Scattered on the ground is freshly cut grass and nearby there is an incense burner smoking with etan. The host sits on a stool before a tiny charcoal stove.

Coffee beans are first of all roasted in a pan. As the smoke rises, it is considered polite to draw it forwards you, inhale it deeply and express great pleasure at the delicious aroma by saying lovely. Next the beans are ground up with a pestle and mortar, and then brewed up with water in a pan until it starts to bubble. When it's finally ready, the coffee is served in tiny china cups with at least three spoons of sugar. At least three cups must be accepted. The third in particular is considered to bestow a blessing.
We had the bad idea to go there right after breakfast. The whole family were waiting for us, the mother, three daughters, the son and a granddaughter. After all the

introduction, in broken English, we were sited and brought a plate of popcorn with bread, also a drink based of sugar canes was served to us. Having just had breakfast, eating was the last thing I wanted to do but you have to be polite, so we ate as much as we could and were quite pleased when they took everything away from us. Our joy was short lived as they brought us a plate of injera garnished with all kind of meat. Again, let me tell you about injera. It is the national bread-like staple and is made with the indigenous Ethiopian cereal tef. It serves as the base of every meal, spread out like a large, thin pancake. Food is simply heaped on top of it. You simply tear off a piece of injera (which looks like an old grey kitchen flannel to me) with your right hand and wrap it around the food served with it.
I usually can eat it if I am really hungry and if there nothing else to eat, but today was not the case. We both looked at each other knowing perfectly that there was no way around it, we had to eat it. I quickly remember some of the Ethiopian eating etiquettes.
- Always use the right hand; the left is used for personal hygiene only.
- Avoid touching your mouth or licking your fingers.
- Do not put food back on the tray.
- Take from your side of the tray only.
- However hungry you are, try not to guzzle. (No chance of that today).
- Filling your mouth too full is also considered impolite.
- It is considered good manners to leave some leftovers on the tray. (Hurray!)
Grahame really got into it, I could not, and I was pleased when he started to take on my side of the plate, I was not about to remind him of the eating etiquettes, thanks buddy, you saved me.
Then it was finally time for the coffee ceremony. Later on they brought us some family photos as well as school certificates as the father returned from work.
We had an interesting time that day and I am not going to forget it in a hurry.

Thursday 9 Jan. 2003
Grahame left today and tomorrow the Word vision will be open again, so back to work for me, end of the easy time.
Then I will head to Addis Ababa and then north toward Sudan.
Do not miss the second part of the Ethiopian story as I enter the cultural side of this country.
Aurevoir.
Click here to view more photos.

Le sud de l'Ethiopie. Première partie.

L'Ethiopie est un des seuls pays Africain a ne pas avoir été colonisé par les Européens. Les Italians l'ont occupés pendant 4 ans, de 1935 à 1939 sous Mussolini.
L'Ethiopie est surtout connu pour ces grandes famines des années 70 et 80. Elle compte plus de 60 millions d'habitants à lors actuel et certaines de ces tribues sont certainement encore les plus isolées et fascinantes sur le continent.
Ils ont un calendrier complètement différent du notre, ils sont en 1995, ce qui veut dire qu'en Ethiopie je n'ai que 39 ans. Leur jour de l'an est le onze septembre (coincidense ?). Noël est fêté le 7 Janvier, l'heure est differente aussi, quand il est 6 heures du matin pour nous, il est minuit pour eux. Par exemple, si la banque ouvre à 9 heures, pour eux il est 3 heures.

Jeudi 26 Déc.
Comme c'était les élections au Kenya le 27, on m'avait recommandé de passer la frontière avant, craignant quelques problèmes ou fermeture de la douane. Cela ne c'est pas passé aussi facilement que j'espèrais. Ils ont insistés à fouiller tout mes baggages, donc il a fallu tout défaire et tout remonter, le tout à pris 2 heures. Cela ne m'a pas trop dérangé car j'avais prévu de rester un jour ou deux de plus

à Moyale, le temps de me remettre de mes émotions.

Samedi 28 Déc.
J'ai repris la route vers 9 heures en faisant bien attention de rouler à droite. Qu'elle plaisir de retrouver une route goudronnée! Le paysage était ravissant, je m'attendais à voir le desert mais pas du tout, tout est bien vert avec vaches, chèvres et bien sur des ânes. Je suis arrivé à Yabello, 300km de route, vers midi et demie sans aucun problème.
J'avais prévu de visiter quelques villages plus à l'ouest mais c'est une région très isolée, sans route, juste chemin en terre. On m'a dit que je ne passerai pas en moto car à cause des pluies, les rivières sont très hautes et comme il n'y a pas de pont je ne pourrai pas les traversées. J'ai donc organisé de laisser ma moto dans l'hotel avec presque tout mes baggages et de continuer par transport public (camions seulement par içi).
Le lendemain, vers deux heures de l'aprés midi, je partais avec une cinquantaine de personnes dans un camion pour Konso. Tassé comme des sardines, sous un soleil de plomb, le voyage ne s'annonçait pas trés confortable, en plus, les autres passagers n'arrêtaient pas de s'engueuler pour diverses raisons incompréhensible à mon oreille.
Le voyage devait durer environ 3 heures pour les 90kms, mais déja à 4 heures il s'était arrêté deux fois pour raison mécanique. Comme je ne voulais pas perdre ma place, je n'étais pas descendu, le soleil se faisait sentir. A 7 heures du soir il rendait l'âme pour de bon et nous n'avions mème pas parcouru la moitié du chemin. Forcèment je n'avais rien pris à manger ou à boire croyant faire juste une petite promenade un Dimanche aprés-midi, en plus la nuit était tombée, donc dans le noir je m'apprêtais à passer la nuit dans mon petit coin car il n'y avait absolument pas d'autres transports dans la région et personne n'avait l'air de s'inquiéter du futur.
Vers 10 heures, tout le monde a commencé à s'agiter soudainement, je me demandais ce qu'il se passait jusqu'à ce qu'à mon tour j'apercois des lumières de voitures au loin. Effectivement un camion s'approchait, quand il fut à notre hauteur, tout le monde c'est précipité dessus et tant bien que mal moi aussi j'ai pu monter dedans. Nous avons continué notre voyage jusqu'à Konso sans autres problèmes et il était minuit et demie quand nous sommes arrivés. Bien sur pas d'électricité, donc je n'avais aucune idée ou j'étais et ou trouvé une place pour passer la nuit. En demandant à droite et à gauche quelqu'un m'a finalement compris et m'a conduit dans une maison pour passer la nuit. Il m'a fait voir brièvement ou était le lit à la lueur d'une torche et a disparu dans la nuit. Tout ce qu'il me restait à faire c'était de me coucher car je n'avais rien pour m'éclairer. A 4.30 heures je me révéillais avec une envie pressante mais dans le noir ou aller, pas question d'attendre 6.30 heures pour la lever du jour donc il a fallu improviser, je vous raconterez la suite peut être une autre fois.

Le lendemain je visitais le marché, trés rudimentaire mais trés intérréssant car beaucoup des tribues de la région y viennent. En général ceux sont les femmes qui portent tout sur leurs dos et marchent pendant des heures avant d'arriver au marché, c'est pourquoi le marché ne commence jamais avant 11 heures du matin.
Dans l'aprés midi j'ai rencontré des touristes qui avaient loués une voiture avec chauffeur à Addis et qui allés à Arba Minch mon prochain arrêt. Ils n'ont pas hésités à m'emmener avec eux. Trois heures plutard nous avions parcourus les 90 kms qui nous séparaient de Arba Minch en traversant plusieurs rivières.

Mardi 31 Déc.
Je ne me voyais guère passer le révéillon à danser, surtout que pour les Ethiopiens c'est une journée comme les autres, pas de fête pour eux, jusqu'à ce qu'un groupe de touristes venu d'Hollande m'invitent à fêter l'événement avec eux. Ils étaient une vingtaine et avaient tout organisés. Nous avons mangés dans un restaurant et ensuite nous avons dansés (surtout eux) jusqu'à 2 ou 3 heures du matin. Bien que j'avais prévu de continuer ma route le lendemain, mon mal de tête y mis fin et je passais une journée de plus à Arba Minch.

Thursday 2 janv.-03
A 6.30 du matin un camion me ramenait à Konso et dans l'aprés midi j'en trouvais un autre pour Yabello. Ce soir là, je retrouvais ma moto saine et sauve ainsi que mes baggages.
Une chose qui est trés pénible en Ethiopie c'est les enfants et les adolescants, ils ne parlent pas Anglais mais quand ils voient un étranger ils crient " toi ! toi ! donnes moi de l'argent " et c'est sans arrêt. Ou alors " D'ou viens tu ? " ou " Ou vas tu ? ". Je pense que c'est parce que l'Ethiopie est assistée depuis plus de 20 ans avec des organisations venant du monde entier, donc ils associent un blanc avec de l'argent. Je pense aussi que le tourist est nouveau en Ethiopie et ne sont pas habitués à eux, toujours est il que cela nous rend la vie difficile.

Le lendemain je repartais avec la moto vers Awassa, 300 kms plus loin, sur une route superbe et un paysage tropical contrairement à ce que je m'imaginais.
Awassa est une petite ville trés agréable sur le bord du Lac Awassa. Il y a beaucoup d'oiseaux; aigles, vautours, pelicans, hérons et maribus en particulier.
Je passais les jours suivant à faire une révision à la moto, à visiter la ville et j'ai aussi pris un bateau avec quelques amis

rencontrés sur place, pour aller voir les hippopotames. Je devais aussi visiter un projet de World Vision mais comme c'était Noël pour eux, ils avaient fermés boutique pour une semaine.
J'ai eu aussi la chance d'être invité dans une famille pour prendre le café. En Ethiopie c'est toute

une cérémonie et il ne faut pas être pressé. D'abord ils font grillés les grains de café sur un petit feu puis ils l'écrassent à l'aide d'une mallette. Ils le font passés ensuite tout doucement et quand il est finalement prêt ils le servent dans des petites tasses avec du sucre et, par politesse, on doit en boire au moins trois tasses.
L'erreur que j'ai fait c'est d'y aller aprés avoir pris le petit déjeuner car toute la famille m'attendait avec toutes sortes de plats traditionnels de la région. Quand j'ai bien faim je n'ai pas de problèmes pour manger leurs nourritures mais dans le cas contraire c'est plutôt une torture, chaque bouchée devient un calvaire et pas question de refuser, cela serait une insulte pour eux. Il y a aussi des régles pour manger, par exemple on mange avec la main droite car

l'autre est réservée pour son hygiène personnelle, il faut essayer de ne pas se toucher la bouche ou de se sucer les doigts, ne pas se remplir la bouche de trop et toujours en laisser un peu dans l'assiette (ma règle favorite aujourd'hui). J'ai passé trois heures en leurs compagnies, aprés le café ils m'ont montrés les photos de famille, tout cela était bien sympatique mais j'avais toujours peur de voir apparaitre un autre plat.
Dans quelques jours je vais continuer vers Addis Ababa et ensuite vers le Sudan.
J'en profite pour passer un bonjour à l'école primaire de Préchacq Josbaig dans les Pyrénées Atlantique " Bonjour les enfants et à bientôt ".

Taking a break in a village.
Un moment de repos dans un petit village.

New Year Eve celebration.
On fête la nouvelle année.

Keeping fit with the locals.
On garde la forme avec les Ethiopiens.

Our family host for the coffee ceremony.
Mes hôtes pour l'invitation à prendre un café.

Coffee ceremony.
Une autre tasse de café s'il vous plait!

Ethiopian girls.
Jeunes filles Ethiopiennes.

An other beautiful girl.
Encore une belle Ethiopienne.

And while I am at it, more "birds"
Les petits oiseaux de la région.

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JOURNAL12 First part of Ethiopia.
10/01/03 . Ethiopia . Total mileage so far 16,100km .
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